review: a yawn revisited…

“Les Herbes”

Last March, I heeled up to the counter at “McRobuchon” at The Four Seasons in New York and had myself one expensive yawn. At least, that’s how I characterized it in a blog post.

But, that was a sensationalistically broad-stroked summary. If you read that post, you’ll see that L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon is much more than a yawn. For those who are willing to engage in it, it’s a dialogue. And, that is why, more than a year later, I, the ever-willing food conversationalist, decided to return.

As previously observed, the food at L’Atelier is not the type that will raise goose skin (though the prices may). It’s not the kind of cooking that will make you slap the table in heated excitement or cause you to vault out of the restaurant in maddened, gustatory ecstasy.

My initial indictment against Robuchon’s food was that it “lacked soul.” It’s perfectly executed and extremely thoughtful, but shockingly expensive. My second meal reconfirmed this.

Les Herbes

Is the food “haute” (this was a topic of a lively debate among my foodie friends)? I say that it most definitely is. Is it French? Yes, some of it is. A lot of it is Asian, and leans toward Japanese in that respect. But, some of it is Italian, and pan-Mediterranean too.

Robuchon’s food defies definition (except, expensive). It’s not molecular gastronmy. It’s not classically anything, either. To call it contemporary seems inappropriate too. As noted, Robuchons’ creations draw upon multiple cultural cuisines and techniques. Even the plating style is entirely and wholly L’Atelier - what I call Star Trek, with a pinch of Asia.

review: verdantly criminal…

Fava Beans

I’m filing a complaint. Chef Colby Garrelts of bluestem is abusing his diners.

Witness: I was enjoying a magnificent spring pea soup (a little too much), poured around an airy quenelle of crème fraîche tableside at bluestem recently when my spoon hit bottom. I reached for the straw…. THERE’S NO STRAW!!

What did the chef expect me to do? Pick up the bowl and start licking?

Of course I didn’t lick the bowl. Who do you think I am?

There were too many people in the dining room.

Green Pea Soup

I just had to find new and creative ways of using a spoon, like as a pavement stripper, scraping the enamel off of the china in order to get every little drop of that velvety, naturally-sweet soup. The truly wonderful thing about that soup: it was simply green peas pureed with stock with some salt and pepper. No butter. No cream (except for the crème fraîche added at the last minute). I also found myself bobbing for those crunchy crumbles of garlicky croutons.

You can’t hide Spring from Chef Garrelts. His menu offers exciting glimpses into the harvest season of 2008. The menu is new, Chef Garrelts insisted that it was a work in progress. But, with him, it always is. Nothing is ever perfect. But he’s wrong. That pea soup is a good example. And, besides a few nits, which only I would have the gall to notice, I had a wonderful meal.

review: as good as it gets…

Jean Georges

My fingers weren’t nimble enough. Failing reservations at momofuku ko, I was forced to fall back on my Plan B.

Thank goodness I had a Plan B.

Given all the trials and tribulations that Jean Georges seems to have undergone according to the various online food fora in the past half year, I was hesitant to return. Recent reports from two vetted New York taste buds (bad pun intended) left me even more reluctant to consider another meal at one of my favorite restaurants.

“Egg Caviar”

The menu is roughshod with citrus, some said. Flavors weren’t balanced. Dishes were over-seasoned, over-sauced, or sub-standard. Such reports left me distraught and confused. I didn’t have the heart to chance destroying my warm fuzzies for the great JG; it’s occupied a cruelly and unfathomably high ledge on my gastronomic altar.

But, Plan B was triggered.

I hate to admit that Jean Georges was my “safety” (to any other restaurant in New York), especially since this dinner turned out to be probably the most enjoyable meal I’ve ever had at Jean Georges.

I insisted that my friend, a Jean Georges virgin, order the “Signature Tasting;” for those who haven’t been, it’s required eating. I ordered the “Spring Tasting” (I’ve had everything on the “Signature Tasting”). The only comment I will make regarding the Signature Tasting is that over the course of my four years of eating at Jean Georges, there really hasn’t been any change, either in execution or quality; just price, which has increased by $30, making my very first meal at Jean Georges an absolute steal by today’s standards. Both the “Signature” and the “Spring” tasting menus are currently $148. You can see all of the photos from this meal on my Flickr.

review: collective swoon…

Over the past couple of years, I’ve witnessed married women, single women, young girls, gay men, grandmothers, and pets *swoon* at the sight, mention, thought, hint of Johnny Iuzzini. And, it’s usually accompanied by one collective and synchronized *eye roll* from husbands, boyfriends, and granddads (and me) nearby.

Johnny Iuzzini
Photos courtesy of Johnny Iuzzini

Iuzzini is the (irresistably good-looking) pastry chef at Jean Georges in New York. Most recently, you may have spotted him on Top Chef’s Season 4 Episode 7 as a guest judge/chef.

My dirty little secret of the week: I’ve done a bit of swooning over Iuzzini lately. His pastries, that is.

And, I do admit having mildly obsessed over his pastries since his days at Daniel.

Jean Georges is one of my favorite restaurants in the world. Including my latest visit a couple of weeks ago, I’ve been blessed to have dined at the New York location in the Trump International Hotel Tower three times now. (I’ve been to the one in Shanghai once.)

In a rare moment of kid-like enthusiasim, I’m going to skip dinner and head straight to dessert (don’t worry, I’ll write up the food later - it was too enjoyable NOT to mention).

wrinkles of spring…

Glories of Spring: Morels

Despite a gossamer gloss of frost in the low-lying areas of my neighborhood this morning, an honest sign of Spring reassuringly appeared at my local farmer’s market today: MORELS!!

Like ramps and truffles, morels are one of those highly sought-after treasures of a narrow-banded growing season that, despite their oft-inflated cost, is irresistible.

Knowing that this is probably the only chance I’ll get to cook morels at home this year, I debated on a number of preparations. There’s always the traditional - with loads of butter and salt. Then, there’s the bacon way. I’m not so technologically-advanced to produce something like Grant Achatz’s morel “puff” I had last year at the James Beard Awards, but I *could* replicate Jean Georges Vongerichten’s very simple, very Alsatian vinegar-spiked recipe for morels in cream sauce.

Grant Achatz’s “Morel Puff”

In the end, I decided to keep things simple, but flavorful.

After a thorough soak and rinse (there’s an amazing amount of dirt hiding in the wrinkles) I sauteed these little gems in some olive oil with loads of chopped garlic, a dash of salt, and a splash of white wine to deglaze the pan. A crusty piece of bread is essential to sop up all the great sauce.

In the coming weeks, I’ll be putting down seedlings in edible garden for the 2008 harvest.

the dream teams…

There are those dream teams of the culinary world that, during their collaboration, affect something of a perfect storm in the kitchen. In Kansas City, I can think of a two such collaborations. There were Debbie Gold and Michael Smith, who first worked together at The American Restaurant in the late ’90s. After winning the James Beard Award together, they opened 40 Sardines (which, sadly, closed last month), where they changed the way Kansas Citians approached and appreciated food. The other team is Colby and Megan Garrelts. They picked up where Gold and Smith left on, advancing Kansas City’s fine dining to a different plane with their cozy Westport 60-seater, bluestem, one of my favorite restaurants.

Joe West, sous chef pastry of bluestem to become
Executive Chef of Delaware Cafe

In addition to the contribution these chefs made to our city’s culinary rise journey, they’ve trained a corps of young chefs who are fast becoming the vanguard of Kansas City cuisine. John McClure, now owner and executive chef at Starker’s Restaurant (formerly, Starker’s Reserve), worked under Gold and Smith at both The American Restaurant and at 40 Sardines. David Crum also cooked under Gold and Smith at The American Restaurant. He also served as Colby Garrelts’ right hand man at bluestem for nearly four years. He left bluestem three months ago to partner with McClure, assuming the role of chef de cuisine at Starker’s Restaurant. Ted Habiger also trained under the Gold and Smith 40 Sardines. He’s now the proud owner and executive chef of Room 39 - both the original one on 39th street in Midtown and the one at Mission Farms down south.

And, then there’s young Joe West. All of 22 years-old, he’s been in and out of kitchens all of his life. He, too, worked briefly at 40 Sardines, and then at bluestem as garde manger. After finishing his studies at the Johnson and Wales Culinary School in Denver late 2007, he re-joined bluestem as sous chef pastry under Megan Garrelts. There, his creative collaboration churned out some stunningly creative and memorable desserts.

I just received word that West will be leaving bluestem on May 10 to become (surely the youngest ever) Executive Chef of Delaware Cafe in the city’s River Market area. For years, it’s been largely a lunch spot (I’m not sure that it served dinner): simple salads and sandwiches (and, from what I’ve heard, some of the best fries - they’re pre-fab fries, which is why they’re so good). The restaurant (and its website) is currently undergoing a “face lift.” From what I understand, so is the menu. Under Chef West, the dinner menu will feature something along the lines of local, fresh, seasonal and simple. I imagine a little bit of Justus Drugstore crossed with Room 30 and a dash of 40 Sardines.

I’ll miss those lavender baked Alaskas and apple pies with black truffle ice cream at bluestem. But, I wish Mr. West the best of luck at Delaware Cafe and look forward to enjoying his creations there later this year.

review: the beautiful life…

Coppa-Crusted Rabbit Loin
La Belle Vie

I first enjoyed Chef Tim McKee’s cooking at Solera in Minneapolis in late 2004. I remember being astounded by his finessed flavors and innovative twists on Spanish tapas.

I kept the menu from that meal and I recently dug it out to see what I had eaten. Even now, I’m impressed by the types and range of foods McKee was putting out there for Minneapolians.

Among the fourteen (14!!) tapas dishes my friend and I tried were rabbit loin with artichokes, mushrooms and lemon, cepe-Mahon croquettes with roasted garlic aioli, shrimp with leek flan and Portuguese piri-piri sauce, lamb carpaccio with tomatoes and avocado, seared foie gras with fig halves, and octopus ceviche with hot pepper and cumin.

Gruyere Gougieres,
La Belle Vie

And, the desserts we tried were equally inventive and satisfying. There were warm, comforting churros, dusted with sugar and cinnamon and sided by a rich spiced-chocolate sauce. “Dessert tapas” featured five bite-size sweets. There were squares of dark chocolate, drizzled with fruity extra virgin olive oil and dusted with crystals of sea salt. A touch of kir was added to cava and topped with cassis foam. There was flan, spiked with espresso and encrusted with “kikos” (corn nuts), and goat cheese cheesecake.

I mean, this is the same Midwestern city (heavily Scandinavian-populated. I might add) that sent the widely acclaimed Marcus Samuelsson, chef of the famous haute Swedish restaurant Aquavit, packing his knives back to New York after a good 4 1/2 years of business the same year.

Now five years after its opening in Spring of 2003, Solera’s still going strong.

no such thing as free bread…

Remember those good old days when bread was an expected service included in the price of your restaurant meal?

Recently, I’ve visited two Kansas City restaurants where bread is now a menu item. That’s right. You don’t get bread unless you pay for it.

Sarah’s Eat Drink Art, which is exclusively a soup, salad and sandwich operation by day charges diners at night for “Fresh Baked Assortment of Bread” for $6. I don’t know who’s the bigger sucker - them for serving it or us for ordering it. I admit, we may have self-implied “house-made” into the descriptor. I highly doubt that what we got was house-made. In our opinion, it definitely wasn’t freshly-baked either.

Then, there’s Cassis, in Town Center Plaza. They do serve complimentary baguette slices with your meal. But, diners also have the option of buying the Artisan Français multi-grain bread basket for $3. It comes with vanilla olive oil. Now, Artisan Français does make quite good bread; I’m not sure I need to pay for it in a restaurant.

Have any other cities out there noticed restaurant’s charging diners for bread? If so, I’d love to hear about it.

a sneak tease…

Graham Elliot Bowles
Photo courtesy of Ian D. Merritt
www.idmphotography.com

In a recent post about my dinner at Avenues, I alluded to the opening of graham elliot (click), Chef G.E. Bowles’ new eponymous “bistronomic” eatery in Chicago.

I told you I would give you the skinny, and here it is: a sneak peek behind graham elliot before it hits the major press.

Like so many other chefs who have made it to the top of their games, Chef Bowles is shrugging off the ritz and putting on the casual - literally.

He and his servers will be sporting Levi 501 Jeans, t-shirts, bib aprons, and Chuck Taylor sneakers in a casual, relaxed dining room with unclothed tables serving unpretentious, but dynamic cuisine.

graham elliot will introduce Chicago to “bistronomy.”

earth hour 2008…

Last year, WWF-Australia organized the inaugural Earth Hour. 2.2 millions residents and 2,100 businesses of Sydney turned off their lights for one hour. This collective effort reduced Sydney’s energy consumption by 10.2% for one hour, which is the equivalent effect of taking 48,000 cars off the road for a year. Many major global cities were inspired by the efforts of Sydney and are turning a symbolic event in to a global movement on March 29.

On Saturday, March 29 from 8:00 - 9:00 pm, the organizers of Earth Hour ask that individuals around the world turn off their lights for one hour. 

Friends, food-bloggers, and readers, please join me in conserving just a tiny bit of our resources tomorrow night.  Turn off your computer, bake an extra loaf or muffin today, and turn off your electricity for just one hour.  Light a candle and contemplate just how much of our earth’s resources we use and, often, take for granted. 

Please visit earthhour.org for more information. You may also view this video about the first Earth Hour.